A Travellerspoint blog

An Oasis in the Desert, and an ancient mystery…

Killing time in Ica, Huacachina and Nazca

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As I had a few days before I needed to arrive in Cuzco for my Inca trail hike, I decided to break up the tediously long bus ride of 20 hours++ by taking a stop in the hippy town of Huacachina via Ica along the way. When I got there, I was informed very politely by the Cruz del Sur office that 3 days in Huacachina would bore me to death, seeing as I had no interest in the small museums in town or the wine-tasting tours outside of town. So I decided on two days in Huacachina to relax, followed by a day in Nazca to see the famous linear carvings in the ground.

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The picturesque town of Huacachina, with its lagoon oasis surrounded by mountains of sand dunes was exactly as depicted on the back of every 50 Soles bank note. It was however a weekend when I was there, and whilst the sleepy little town was tranquil and relaxing during the day, with every restaurant softly playing reggae hits in the background, the nights air was filled with the pumping beats of reggaeton and dance remixes. In fact on my last morning, when I woke early on the Sunday to take my last stroll around the lagoon, I noticed that not only were most of the cafeterias still closed, but the ones that were open were serving not only breakfast, but also Peru’s own concept of a hangover cure: Leche de Tigre or Leche de Pantera(ceviche juices with or without a shot of pisco), with piping hot plates of pork ribs with rice.
With majority of the inhabitants of Huacachina being Rastafarian wannabes with their unwashed rags and dreadlocks, I was happy to stay just the two days to catch up on emails and of course take the sunset dune buggy and sandboarding tour.

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The sandboarding tour was really worth it. We first zipped along at crazy angles across the seemingly endless dunes, and then proceeded to sandboard down these hills at rapid speeds. There were two options: Stand on the board and try to “surf” the dunes, or slide down belly-on-board. I tried both ways, but have to admit that for the final long drop on the last hill even belly-down I was panicking.

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On the way back to the lagoon we stopped awhile to watch the sunset over the horizon of the desert, enjoying every moment as the heat of the sun slowly developed into the cool night.

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But if I thought Huacachina was hot, then I was certainly overwhelmed when I arrived in Nazca. A mere two hours journey away, Nazca was so hot I could practically see the heat waves roll off the sand in the distance. After waiting some time at the tiny airport in Nazca, we were finally ushered to our plane, a petite 4 passenger similar to the kind you jump off with a parachute.

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During the half hour flight, we were taken to see the distant lines of various animals and figures, such as the whale, astronaut, dog, monkey, and hummingbird, amongst many more. It was however a very bumpy flight, and is not recommended for the motion sickness prone. In fact, after seeing the first few lines, I might have jumped off if given a parachute.

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And so, after spending a scorching 3 days in desert-like country, I was glad to proceed to the highlands of Cuzco and the Sacred Valley. Next stop: Inca trail to Machu Picchu!

Posted by jessho 05:46 Archived in Peru Comments (0)

Taste of Peru

Lima: Food capital of South America

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After a good nights’ rest on my VIP bus service to Lima, I arrived and bedded down in the safest suburb of Lima, Miraflores. I found a hostel/bar overlooking the main parque in the center, where food finds were plentiful and so were the gringos. It was very quaint, with the local vendors in the parque peddling their wares in matching outfits, be it popcorn, churros, sandwiches, or picarones (local donuts). I did have the opportunity to taste many of these, and have to say that I was pretty impressed with everything that I tried.

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After taking a day or two to settle my affairs, such as obtain my Bolivian visa, do laundry, and sleep, I then eagerly anticipated the arrival of Uncle Geoffrey. Of course in the meantime I did stop by for a visit to the nearby ruins of Huaca Pucllana, to observe the pyramid blocks of an ancient empire surrounded by the tall buildings of modern day civilization.

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Being that I spent the major part of my time in Lima with Uncle Geoff, who was there mainly to sample Lima’s famous cuisine, it then goes without saying that most of my experiences there was based on food. We did one day take a brief car ride over to central Lima, and after he left I met up with an old friend, and managed to take in some sights of the nearby neighborhood of Barranco.

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On his first night, I took my uncle to a local sandwich bar next to Parque Kennedy, as he had the munchies after 36 hours of traveling, and at midnight on a Monday, there was nothing else open. It turned out to be a pretty good meal. It had a casual atmosphere, almost resembling a NYC burger bar, but with much better food. And of course it happened to be right under my hostel, making it convenient too!

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Aside from this, we sampled 4 restaurants altogether, each bringing a different experience. The first was a recommended café booked by his tour company, a little cafeteria called Saqra, hidden in a small quarter in Miraflores amongst many little antique shops. The menu was amazing, and it was here we tried our first ceviche (Peru’s most popular dish), along with other local favorites such as octopus causa, lomo saltado, picarones, and of course a pisco sour.

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At night we went to Rafael, and even managed to squeeze in an interview with the man himself, Rafael Osterling. He was a remarkable person, charming and jovial, and very enthusiastic about his passion for Peruvian food. He talked mainly about his vision for Peru, and after organized an amazing tasting menu, complete with tiradito (similar to ceviche but using a different cut of fish), scallops (so fresh they practically melt in your mouth), chicharon, foie, and an amazing dessert of mango ravioli with lucuma stuffing, apple sorbet, and passion fruit foam.

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After eating our fill, compliments of the chef, we proceeded to explore the bar scene and night life of Barranco. It was fairly vibrant, considering it was a Tuesday night, but after several classic bars, a live rock bar, and an open air salsa bar with a 6 piece band, I was ready to retire to bed.

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The next day was another day of heavy eating, as we started out with lunch at El Mercado, Rafael’s daytime restaurant. Bringing a different vibe with its open style dining, the food was of course excellent. My favorite dish was the grilled octopus, so fresh it was not the slightest chewy, infused marvelously with the other flavours of the tomatoes, mushrooms, and homemade sauce. We also tried a twist on the traditional Taku-taku. Originally introduced as food for slaves, this dish was traditionally made with pressed remains from the previous night, usually corn or rice with beans, topped with your choice of meat with gravy. At El Mercado, it was made with beans and corn, topped ceremoniously with a heaping of crayfish.

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That night we visited the famous Astrid Y Gaston for their 17 course degustacion menu. The entire experience was like an art form in itself, as dish after dish was not only an eclectic fusion of tastes, but also wonderfully presented with a unique design or presentation for every course.

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There are too many dishes to name, although some of my favourites included the medley of canapés served in the first course in the form of a bird’s nest representing nature, a fusion of tiny tomatoes served with crunchy quinoa and tomato water in a handcrafted ceramic dish, and a lucuma popsicle served with bitter chocolate and crunchy nuts. In my opinion, a bargain at 330 Soles. (USD128)

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Now onto a little of the culture in Lima. As mentioned before, I visited just a few of the sights in Central Lima, including the main cathedral and the convent of Santo Domingo, although for me a curious fact was that color brand names were forbidden in this area, so as not to “take away from the cultural atmosphere” of the old town, and so each corner was still littered with fast food restaurants, with their classic signs printed only in black. Of course Dunkin Donuts was also located directly opposite the house of Gastronomia… Classic.

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For my last day spent with my friend Claudia, we spent our afternoon at a small restaurant in Barranco, with a nice terrace overlooking the sunset. Here we tried a different, more traditional Taku-taku, made with rice and beans, and covered liberally with Lomo Saltado.

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Overall with its penchant for good food, quaint architecture, and proximity to the beach, I must admit that it is very tempting to make Lima my new home away from home.

Posted by jessho 18:48 Archived in Peru Comments (0)

Trekking the Andes

Huaraz and the Cordilleras Blancas

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Arriving in the small town of Huaraz early in the morning, Carlos and I headed from the bus terminal straight to the tour agency to check on what was available. After some consideration, we decided on the daily tour to Nevado Pastoruri for the first day, and then an early night in a nearby hostel to prep for a 4 day Santa Cruz trek through the Andes to see the Corilleras Blancas.

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On hindsight, after travelling for 4 + 9 hours on the bus from Chiclayo-Trujillo-Huaraz, it would probably have been a better idea to acclimatize in Huaraz at 3100m, instead of hiking to the Pastoruri Glacier at 5000m on the first day. Oh well, lesson learned.

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After a good night’s sleep, we set off early to have breakfast, and our first cup of mate de coca, in the quiet picturesque town of Yungay for the start of the trek. We then proceeded to drive along the winding roads of the mountains, past Laguna Chinancocha/Laguna Mujer, towards the start point of the actual trek, and the entrance to the National park of Huascaran.

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The walk on the first day was relatively easy, with only a few short ascents and mostly flat terrain with clear paths. For our first campsite, we set up at a mere 3900m to better acclimatize for the brutal climb the next day. Needless to say, the mountains at night are brutally cold, and even after a good hot meal and some more mate de coca, our entire group had a fitful nights’ sleep.

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The hike on the second day was by far the most difficult, having to trudge up from 3900 to 4750m. The views, however, were indeed rewarding. From the top of the pass, we were able to view the tops of the Cordillera Blancas, as well as Tauji Cocha(laguna), and the famous Artezon Raju, better known as the mountain for Paramount Pictures. After a relaxing 2 hour descent, we found ourselves on the wrong side of the river to the campsite, having missed a turn some ways back. Not wanting to backtrack, having already been laughed at by the guide, cook, and donkey driver from across the river, we proceeded to look for a safe place to cross over. I picked my way across a few rocky paths, only to find myself knee deep in what smelled suspiciously like donkey poo. (I think it was just dried grass and mud… I hope) But, in the end we made it, and with plenty of time for me to rinse off my muddy clothes in the river and dry them in the sun too!

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That night we smartened up and asked for our water bottles to be filled in the evening with hot water for the next days’ trek, so we could use them to pre-warm our sleeping bags. While this definitely helped, it was still difficult to sleep on the hard ground in the cold.

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The third day was my favorite, as our group split, and the hard-core hikers took off with the guide up the mountain through a more difficult trail, while the rest of us were left to meander at our own leisurely pace, through the sandbar, lagunas, valleys, and waterfalls, covering a total of approximately 18km for the day. It was amazing, walking along the deserted path, providing for time to think and reflect on all of nature’s wonders.

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Our campsite that night was infinitely better too, having set up camp in the small town of Cashapampa, where cold beers and colas could be bought at the local tienda, and the owner of the campsite provided entertainment in the form of harp music and traditional songs, granted he was a little drunk himself by then. It was also a lot warmer than our previous nights, being a mere 2900m elevation, and so it was my best night of sleep yet.
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For the last day there were two options: trekking the hour across to the thermal springs, or wandering around the local town and countryside for an hour, after which we boarded the bus to head back to Huaraz, stopping only once on the way in a small town to taste the local made ice-cream, a special treat after a grueling 4 days.

  • Tip: There is no shortage of agencies in Huaraz looking to take tourists on the trek, but be careful where you shop, as food and quality of equipment reflects the price of the tour, and for a physically demanding trek, it’s not really something you want to skimp on.

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While I probably suffered the most in our group from the high altitude passes, I must admit I still thoroughly enjoyed my stay in Huaraz, and would definitely recommend it to anyone traveling form the north to the south of Peru.

And as a final note: So I could have a decent nights’ sleep, I splurged on a VIP bus with Olturso from Huaraz to Lima, an eight hour ride, complete with food, hot drinks, pillow and blanket, and constant WIFI throughout the journey, for a mere US$28… bargain if you ask me. Onwards to Lima!

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Posted by jessho 08:36 Archived in Peru Tagged mountains nature peru camp huaraz cordillera Comments (0)

Galapagos Islands

Sun, Sand, Sea Lions… and so much more!

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The Initial Experience

So as with most popular tourist destinations and schedules, my trip to the Galapagos Islands of Ecuador had its ups and downs. For starters, even though the boat I booked was usually full, for some reason, the date that I picked there were no other passengers. Of course I only found this out at the airport after checking in my bags, and I was informed by the owner that a replacement boat would be found for me, and she would even extend my ticket by one day and let me do a one day private tour on the Merak for the first day.

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So I went to Baltra, met the guide Alberto, and heading over the Caleta de Tortuga Negra for a few hours to observe the mating of the Green-Sea Turtles in progress. Amongst this, we also sighted some white-tipped sharks, and a couple of blue footed boobies. Alberto left shortly after, leaving me to sail with the Spanish-speaking crew of 3 over to Puerto Ayora, where I would await my next instructions. There were none. After some distorted Spanish conversations with Ruth, the owner over the phone, I learnt that there were no other boats available, and instead, she had organized for me to stay at her house, and join 3 days of daily tours to different islands, before boarding the Merak again for a 4 day cruise on the Friday. Although I wasn’t too pleased with this arrangement, I figured I would just try it out anyway, being a little too tired to argue more.

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Needless to say my first few days experience on the islands was disastrous. The house itself was nice, and I had my own spacious room, but the crew spoke only Spanish, and after a while I ran out of vocabulary to maintain a decent conversation. The daily tours were very average, with naturalist guides who spoke terrible English, so much so I wound up joining the Spanish-speaking groups on most occasions. I had some interesting experiences, such as encountering sea lions in the water. But I must say that out of the 3 daily tours to Bartolome, Floreana, and Isabela, only the tour to Isabela was memorable. It was there that I saw some Galapagos penguins, checked out the giant tortoise research center and caught glimpses of old embryos and tortoise fetuses, as well as baby tortoises no bigger than a human hand.
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We also had the chance to visit Tintoreras, an area littered with juvenile marine iguanas, overlooking a narrow cove filled with resting white-tipped sharks, an area we were actually able go snorkeling through carefully.

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And it was a big plus that on the way to the island from Puerto Ayora, we caught sight of what looked like a family of dolphins in the open waters. Of course I found out later from the more reputable guide on the Merak that they were in fact most likely Pilot whales. Even better…

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But even with all this, I felt the tour I had originally chosen, and the experience I had on the daily tours were eons apart. After another quick chat with Ruth, I managed to barter for the full 8 days on the Merak, inclusive of a stop on the elusive Espanola Island, land of the waved albatross, at no additional cost. I guess my Spanish is getting better after all!

The Cruise

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And so I embarked on an incredible 8 day adventure aboard the motor-sailboat Merak, which on the plus side held only a maximum of 8 passengers, so the tours in and out of the water were more or less private, and invited a more intimate atmosphere onboard. On the down side however, with her tiny hull and tall mast, she cut through the water like Edward Scissorhands on steroids. But having said that, the crew were great, the food amazing and plentiful, and the experience with the flora and fauna of the islands was utterly unforgettable.

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Now as we all know, there have been countless numbers of published material on the Galapagos islands and tours, so instead of droning on with a full play-by-play, I’ll just touch base on the highlights.
I of course paid a quick visit to the Charles Darwin Research Centre, where I observed the typical “saddle-backed” tortoises of Santa Cruz with their exceptionally long necks, and the, now sadly empty, coral of the late Pinto tortoise “Lonesome George”, who passed away in June this year at the ripe age of 54. This, along with a quick jeep ride into the national park El Chato, where 4500 other tortoises reside, gave me more than enough down time with the slow and steady.

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On many of the islands, such as Santiago, North Seymour, Santa Fe and Islet Lobos, there were countless masses of Sea Lion colonies, mostly inclusive of numerous juveniles and newborns more than happy to smile at the passing paparazzi.

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We even had the chance to snorkel with a few playful juvenile Sea Lions in the waters around Islas Plazas. It was truly an amazing experience, and it was curious how the more bubbles and flips we made in the water, the more these inquisitive creatures would be inclined to follow and imitate us. On one of the nights when we were docked close to a colony, we even had a single adult female come to take refuge on the back step of the boat!

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The snorkeling experiences over the 8 day tour, in my opinion, were the highlight of the trip, as we had opportunities to see green sea and hawksbill turtles, sharks (white-tipped, black-tipped, and Galapagos), and different types of rays as well (manta, spotted eagle, diamond, marbled and golden cowrays). In fact, if you sat outside on the deck of the boat as it sailed through open waters, you could often catch the larger rays flip just above the water line, in an attempt to rid themselves of parasitic fish.

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Then of course you have the famous marine iguanas, endemic to the islands of Galapagos. In the southern-most islands they take on a reddish tinge, and on Espanola Island you can even find “Christmas Iguanas”, easily recognizable by their distinct bright green markings on their spine and legs. Off the coast of San Cristobel, it was even possible to see these adaptable creatures feeding on sea algae under water! Vast difference compared to their bright yellow land species cousin.

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And now onto the birds of the Galapagos… there were loads. We saw the mating rituals of the red-chested frigatebirds on Seymour North, with their unique technique of puffing out their red glands on their chests to attract the females of the species.

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Amongst the “Boobies”, yes that is the proper term for them…, I saw just 2 of the 3 species, the larger green-footed Nazca Booby, and the fast-flying, super-diving Blue-footed Booby. These amazing acrobats plummet through the air at full speed, hitting the water at a 90 degree angle to catch their fish… If there was a fish Olympics, the score would read 10/10/10!!!

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Then of course there is the famous waved albatross… 4th largest rank in the world for a wingspan of up to 2.4m, with the ugliest offspring I have ever laid eyes on. As in… they might even give the “ugly duckling” a run for his money…

On several islands, you could also catch close-ups of the Galapagos mockingbird, a scavenger with a sense of curiosity towards water bottles, and a definite penchant for the taste of freshly swatted flies, the latter which I was only too happy to oblige.

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And finally, the predators: The Galapagos Hawk and the Monk Owl. I managed to catch pictures of the hawk on several occasions, with its distinctive curved beak and majestic form gliding through the skies. The owl however, was another story. I was up on the deck checking out the stars and the moon with our boat guide Che Che, when two owls drifted right above me. Had I had my camera, it would have made for a brilliant photo, with the half-moon behind them illuminating the shadows of their wings…click: Mental picture. It was one of the most surreal moments I had on the cruise, that is until the funniest thing happened… Che Che completely freaked out, waving his hands and madly shooing them away. Apparently he can dive with hammerhead sharks but is convinced that the owls are coming to claw your eyes out!

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On my final few hours of cruising time back to Santa Cruz from Espanola, I lay at the very tip of the bow, gazing at the night’s sky as it filled with constellations. And as the bright lights of Puerto Ayora drew closer, I became overwhelmed with gratitude for this amazing experience to one of the world’s most famous national park.

So as my final spiel of tips for the future visitors of Galapagos:

Land tours may be cheaper, but they in no way compare to the experiences you’ll have on a boat cruise.

Don’t try to save bucks if you’re prone to seasickness, the smaller boats WILL move more,

The reviews which tell you to bring a multitude of snacks obviously didn’t have Mauro as a cook, because on the last night he even managed
to make strawberry shortcake while rocking about on open seas,

Wet suits are a godsend in the waters in the South

As always: Bring an ipod, cards, and even some dice… There’s not much happening after 8pm,

And finally,if you go snorkeling with the sharks, find yourself a buddy you know you can outswim ;)

Chao for now!!
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Posted by jessho 09:22 Archived in Ecuador Tagged animals birds sea islands nature snorkel iguanas galapagos seals Comments (0)

Quito: Weeks 3 and 4

Chilling at Cascadas, and Chugging down Cervezas… two totally different weekends!

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Week 3

So as I’ve been living in the same house and going to the same school every day, I seem to have fewer comments in my last fortnight compared with during the first. But while things have been fairly uneventful during the week, I have had two very exciting weekend trips since the last blog update.

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For instance, in the first week of November I joined a mini excursion with the school led by our director Luis, to bus it out to a small village about an hour away, to eat the ecuadorian delicacy Cuy. What it is essentially is whole guinea pig roasted on a spit till crispy, its meat tasting remotely like rabbit or other game meat, but its texture closely resembling belly pork, with its well-seasoned meat surrounded by a layer of crispy fatty crackling. Many other students found it too gamey or difficult to eat, but I guess coming from Asia I had the benefit of being able to eat pretty much anything… Plus it’s nowhere near as complicated as chicken feet or fish head curry.

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Aside from that particular outing, a unique change this week was that classes were cancelled on Friday, due to a public holiday known as El Dia del Muerte (the day of the dead). A rather morbid time for vacation if you ask me, the locals use the extra day to respect their dead in cemeteries, or go away on vacation. They also have special foods in anticipation of the holiday, specifically a thick fruity drink called Colada Morada which is thickened with ground black corn to resemble blood/ Sangre, and guagua de pan, a type of bread with cheese or marmalade shaped like a baby. The fun part was to rip of the head of the “baby” and dunk it into the hot drink, particularly on a frosty morning in Quito.

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As Friday was a holiday not only for students, but for workers as well, I headed off with Diego west to Mindo, to explore a bit of nature for the long weekend. While not exactly the kind of place you would go to if you were expecting a good fiesta, Mindo is perfect to unwind, relax, and just enjoy being with nature. We spent the Saturday climbing the series of waterfalls in the jungle and making friends with the butterflies, which incidentally inspired us to check out the Mariposarium for more butterflies the next day.

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Tip: Rain is common, so bring a waterproof jacket for walking outdoors, or enjoy listening to the sounds of the rain, river and various species of birds from indoors. I preferred the latter.

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Week 4

Again not a very eventful week, but seeing as it was my last week at the school, and the fact that I was meant to make up an extra 4 hours of classes, I not only joined the general school tour to the Basilica Catolica, but also did a one-on-one excursion to the little village of Saquisili two hours south of Quito.

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The Basilica was nice, offering narrow passageways upwards into the different towers to see different viewpoints from above, although I think given the option again I might want to combine it with the tour of the old city, as the two are quite close, and it seemed a bit of a shame to go all the way out there just for the basilica.

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Saquisili is a small village which is on the whole pretty dead, except on Thursdays and Sundays, when locals and tourists gather to take part in or witness the variety of displays the markets have to offer. Having 7 different types of markets every Thursday, made this day an obvious choice to go. We started off at the two animal markets, for large and then small animals. The large animal market seemed to be in a kind of organized chaos, as while to me it looked like there was no exact order to the categorization of the masses of pigs, cows, llamas, goats and sheep, it also seemed as though everyone knew where they were going, or where a particular company/farm kept their animals.

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The small animal market had a little more structure to it, with “edible” animals such as chickens, rabbits and guinea pigs at the forefront, followed by large pens of “mascotas” such as dogs, cats and geese. Yes I did find it a bit strange that they eat the guinea pigs and keep the geese as pets…

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The other markets were very typical, the kind I guess you could find anywhere, markets for clothes, markets for edible produce (fruits, vegetables, meat), markets for other products (threads, fabric, etc.). Towards the end of my visit a sudden case of déjà vu flashed through my head… except it was so strong I really did feel like I had been there before: and once I turned to the street corner it hit me… I HAD been there before. It was the same indigenous market I had been to on the excursion on my first week! Only then I visited just one market, and had no idea what the name of the town was… small world…

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So my last weekend in Quito I needed to plan something big. Not just because it was my last weekend, or because I’d finished school… It was more so because I organized to stay an extra weekend in the area specifically to attend the Fiesta de Mama Negra in Latacunga.

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It is a period celebrated twice a year, in September and November, to commemorate the survival of the city of Latacunga from the volcanic eruption of Cotopaxi volcano, some 100+ years ago. And while our first evening on Friday night was relatively dead, come Saturday morning, the streets came alive with locals in festive moods or dressed for the parade, vendors pedaling their wares, and other bewildered tourists. The parade was a four hour succession of local men and women dressed in traditional clothes, dancing to folk music played by bands, some made up by members of the police academy in full uniform, men carrying on the strange tradition of carrying whole carcasses of roasted pig adorned with full bottles of liquor simply so they could drink and eat at the parade’s end, and even several groups of dancing transvestites… ugly transvestites.

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Oh and don’t forget about the “cleaners”. These were groups of men dressed in white, who capture people in the crowd and drag them into the parade, circling them and chanting sayings of luck and good wishes, supposedly cleansing their spirit, and at the end another man dressed as a cowboy will spit/spray a shot of liquor down your back. Or into your face if you’re unlucky.

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It was an unusual concept, as most of the parade participants would carry different things, such as fruit, candy, flowers, cookies or homemade alcohol, and when you caught their attention in the crowd, they would either throw their treats, or in the case of the alcohol come over to you to pour a shot of liquor down your throat. Needless to say, after all the beer and mixed liquor, most people came out of the parade more than a little tipsy, and hungry as hell.

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This was the case for me as well, and so I went off to try some local street food: grilled beef with mashed cheesy potatoes and spicy salsa, crispy roast pork with potatoes and salad, and fried cheese fritters. Now maybe it was the fact that I was starving, or maybe it was the fact that I’d had so much to drink that my vision was blurry, but damn… the food there is good. The streets were not only littered with vendors and their food carts, but every few blocks you could hear either folk or Latin music in a bar or street corner, with crowds of people continuing to party on a high after the day’s events, despite the rain. We did the same, ducking into a dark café to shelter from the downpour, only to find an inviting mix of hot drinks, reggaton music, and a small group of seriously happy people.

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And that just about sums it up for me, not only for the last 2 weeks, but for my entire stay in Quito. Altogether it is a beautiful city filled with culture and surrounded by amazing scenery, and I may only have stayed a few short weeks, but that was more than enough time for me to fall in love with the people and their culture and to leave it almost feels like I’m leaving home all over again. On the other hand… Next week: Galapagos!

Posted by jessho 04:03 Archived in Ecuador Comments (0)

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